Anonymous asked: When I see the old Hollywood movies and their no vent jackets of that day I'm tempted to have my jackets made in the same way. What are your thoughts on the no vent back?
No vent has a long and storied history whereas vents are a relatively recent thing, previously confined to “sporty” garments but eventually becoming the standard. I once asked Antonio Liverano about this, his response was “when I started working, suits would never have vents, but nowadays, you people put them on whatever you like”.
Vents are a matter of practicality. If you are on horseback or like to have your hands in your pockets, the vents help the back of the jacket fall a little neater, especially if you like to have your jacket buttoned.
I like unvented jackets for two reasons. 1. When well executed, the lower half of the jacket will drape neatly and remain narrow with no opportunity to flare, thus flattering the hips. 2. It produces a sleek look which gives the jacket a nice formality. I recommend it for tuxedos and sometimes for three pieces. The downside is when you sit down, the jacket will bunch up at the back and the creases will probably remain if you are sitting for a long period of time.
Finally, unvented sport jackets are worth a special mention, as I always think of them as an artifact of Naples, often seen on classically-minded Neapolitans like Gianluca Migliarotti of O’Mast and I Colori fame.