Tailor Made Style

It's not about what you wear, but how you wear it.

Ithaca, NY

Any followers know the area? I will be here working until Friday and would like to do something better than sit in my hotel room after work at night.

Any stores I should check out, restaurants I should eat at, places to go and see? Hit up the ask/fan mail and let me know!

hommism: That tie bar is ridiculously wrong and long And the adjusters on them suspenders are way too high.

hommism:

That tie bar is ridiculously wrong and long

And the adjusters on them suspenders are way too high.

putthison: Emergency Spot Cleaning  A few days ago, I was sitting outside and enjoying a turkey sandwich from a local deli when a few drops of juice from the tomatoes fell onto my wool trousers.  This is far from the first time i’ve been irresponsible while eating food. When I had a job that required me to travel almost weekly for half a year, stains would inevitably find their way to my clothing while I was hours away from being able to rush the garment to my dry cleaner or treat the stain myself at home.  One of the most important thing you learn about stains and how to remove them is to treat the stain as quickly as possible. It’s for this reason that I started carrying around a Tide-to-Go pen. For the past few years, I’ve always kept one in my briefcase and this thing is nothing short of magic.  Place a small amount of its liquid solution on the stain, apply friction and let it dry. It’s worked for me on wool and cotton (fortunately, I haven’t had to test it on silk just yet) and in just a few minutes, too.  The only stains I’ve found it doesn’t work so well on were oily grease stains, which the product’s website openly admits. Regardless, for a few bucks it’s worth having around if you’re a bit of a messy person. -Kiyoshi Seconded. I keep one in my briefcase for similar reasons, whether I’m travelling across country or just driving to the office. Definitely recommended.

putthison:

Emergency Spot Cleaning 

A few days ago, I was sitting outside and enjoying a turkey sandwich from a local deli when a few drops of juice from the tomatoes fell onto my wool trousers. 

This is far from the first time i’ve been irresponsible while eating food. When I had a job that required me to travel almost weekly for half a year, stains would inevitably find their way to my clothing while I was hours away from being able to rush the garment to my dry cleaner or treat the stain myself at home. 

One of the most important thing you learn about stains and how to remove them is to treat the stain as quickly as possible. It’s for this reason that I started carrying around a Tide-to-Go pen. For the past few years, I’ve always kept one in my briefcase and this thing is nothing short of magic. 

Place a small amount of its liquid solution on the stain, apply friction and let it dry. It’s worked for me on wool and cotton (fortunately, I haven’t had to test it on silk just yet) and in just a few minutes, too. 

The only stains I’ve found it doesn’t work so well on were oily grease stains, which the product’s website openly admits. Regardless, for a few bucks it’s worth having around if you’re a bit of a messy person.

-Kiyoshi

Seconded. I keep one in my briefcase for similar reasons, whether I’m travelling across country or just driving to the office.

Definitely recommended.

chriswjoseph: You can almost never go wrong with a three piece suit… Black and grey play well together and in this instance, a crisp white shirt is the best choice to anchor the ensemble. [Brand information unavailable; photo source: Google Images.] #theMensStyleConcierge #StyleAmbassadors #MensWear #Dapper #DailyStyle #MensStyle #PocketSquare #SuitUp #Haberdashery #ThreePiece #Sartorial #SkinnyTie #MensFashion #StyleKings #chriswjoseph My one complaint? Too skinny of a tie. That or too wide of lapels on the suit jacket. Otherwise this is great. To be fair, I am a bit biased against skinny ties anyway.

chriswjoseph:

You can almost never go wrong with a three piece suit… Black and grey play well together and in this instance, a crisp white shirt is the best choice to anchor the ensemble. [Brand information unavailable; photo source: Google Images.] #theMensStyleConcierge #StyleAmbassadors #MensWear #Dapper #DailyStyle #MensStyle #PocketSquare #SuitUp #Haberdashery #ThreePiece #Sartorial #SkinnyTie #MensFashion #StyleKings #chriswjoseph

My one complaint? Too skinny of a tie. That or too wide of lapels on the suit jacket.

Otherwise this is great. To be fair, I am a bit biased against skinny ties anyway.

(via ingeniousjuice)

No belt. Why? Because fuck you. Tucked in tie? Fuck yes. Definitely my kind of style. In fact, I am already planning on wearing this outfit myself.

No belt. Why? Because fuck you.

Tucked in tie? Fuck yes.

Definitely my kind of style. In fact, I am already planning on wearing this outfit myself.

(via hommism)

An education.

mostexerent:

Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011

mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

  1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
  3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
  5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
  7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
  9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
  11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
  13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

  1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
  2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
  3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
  4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
  5. Sleeve shape & length the same
  6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
  7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

  1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
  2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
  3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
  4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
  5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

  • 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
  • 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings
  • 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
  • Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

You’ve been schooled.

thedapperstyle:

It’s the year of the loafer! They are everywhere. We suggest lighter colors for spring. A suede loafer is a definite.

I’ve recently begun looking for a decent pair of loafers on the cheap. I’ve never liked loafers before, so of course I need to get a pair and Tim Gunn that shit.

Make. It. Work.

mrmoderngentleman: mugenstyle: I like tucking in my tie as well, remember its not for everyone. P Definitely not for everyone and tricky to pull off; precisely why I do it sometimes.

mrmoderngentleman:

mugenstyle:

I like tucking in my tie as well, remember its not for everyone.

P

Definitely not for everyone and tricky to pull off; precisely why I do it sometimes.