I can’t think of a time or outfit I’d find use for the boots he is wearing, but I want them.
(via hommism)
I really want a lightweight double breasted blazer for the summer.
(via hommism)
Real People: Braces
For a while now I’ve been thinking about trouser fit. As a consequence, the idea of braces (a.k.a.: suspenders) has crossed my mind as well. Looking at these photos from Edvard from Armenia, I’m convinced that if I do look to purchase a custom suit in the future, the trousers will not have belt loops — instead: braces buttons and side-adjusters.
Braces can keep your trousers up better than a belt can, especially if you’re like me and have developed a slight beer gut that pushes the waistband of your trousers down. The suspension keeps them at the proper height throughout the day without the need to restrict the waist and rumple the waistline as you would when tightening a belt. Or so goes the theory. I haven’t tried it yet myself, but I see enough guys praise braces to make me very interested in giving them a shot.
Going with braces makes even more sense on a double-breasted suit, as it allows them to stay hidden and out of view. Traditionally, some will refer to braces as a form of underwear that should never be seen and concealed by a jacket or waistcoat at all times. That view probably isn’t widely held today — nor are braces widely worn — but I think it’s a fair point and worth considering.
-Kiyoshi
Braces are a much better option for suits. I even wear them with certain casual outfits as it holds my pants up better and is more comfortable. It is definitely worth looking into if you have never worn them before!
(Source: thedappergentleman, via mrmoderngentleman)
The Elevator Pitch of How to Start Dressing Better
A few weeks ago while out with friends and acquaintances I was asked a familiar question when the fact came up that I blog about men’s style: “How can I start dressing better?”
This isn’t an easy question for me to quickly answer and is beyond the attention span of most people in the course of a free-flowing conversation — especially over beer at a bar. While I’m happy to talk about the subject at length, I do try to avoid chatting someone’s ears off about my various obsessions.
Entire books are written about the subject and an overwhelming amount of resources are available on the Internet. Even Jesse’s 25-pieces of basic sartorial knowledge is tough to rattle off when you may only have enough time to tell someone a few sentences.
What I needed was the “elevator pitch” of how a guy can begin to dress better — an idea that he can act on and sets the ball rolling.
Now I suggest one simple thing: “Wear nice shoes.”
Ugly shoes can ruin an otherwise acceptable outfit and nice shoes can elevate an ordinary one. While it’s no shortcut to having better style, it does begin the process to get a man thinking about the subject.
Learning about nice shoes implants the idea of aesthetics and higher-quality purchases in a guy’s head. At the very least, guys who take this advice will stop wearing ratty gym trainers and rubber-soled “sporty” hybrid dress shoes.
I think that once a guy starts down this path, he will eventually broaden his view toward the rest of his wardrobe. If he’s wearing nice shoes, then perhaps he begins to think about getting a few nice shirts. Or a sport coat and proper fit.
And maybe one day he’ll become too self aware about his pocket square collection to know that he doesn’t have any seasonally-appropriate ones for his tweed jackets and spends an hour looking for the right one that blends burgundy and tan.
Or maybe not. It may just be enough that he’s wearing better shoes, which I think is a good thing. So, that’s my new pitch: “Wear nice shoes.”
-Kiyoshi
The only other short (and obvious to many) piece of “elevator pitch” advice I give is about proper fit.
I’ll be adding this now.
Repatination
Take Care of Those Shoes- Kirby Allison of the Hanger Project is now the leading retailer of Saphir shoe polish and shoe care in the country. Here is a link to his website and blog where he is encouraging guys everywhere to join him for Shoe Shine Sundays. There is even live chat. His website has instructional videos and information on shoe care, including suede and exotic skins. Abitofcolor recommends that you check it out if you want to keep your shoes looking their very best. http://www.hangerproject.com/closet/blog/shoe-shine-sundays/
Definitely something I’ll be checking out!
Black Tie at the 2013 Oscars
It’s easy to lament about the state of black tie in Hollywood during award shows, but some men are worth highlighting for wearing a tuxedo well and with an adherence to tradition.
Hugh Jackman’s tuxedo from Tom Ford was my favorite, featuring a very unique double-breasted shawl-collared jacket and he was one of the few to wear a simple pocket square. The ensemble is quite masculine and reminds me of something you’d perhaps see an actor wear while browsing through old Hollywood black and white photos. And we all know he was actually able to move quite well in it.
And Bradley Cooper’s three-piece tuxedo worked equally well, I thought (also by Tom Ford) — especially when comparing how the waistcoat fit him properly in comparison to Ben Affleck’s three-piece. The broadness of the peaked lapels looked much more striking in comparison to the many other tuxedos of the night that were notched.
What I liked about Chris Pine’s simple double-breasted 6x2 tuxedo from Ermenegildo Zegna was that it has a simplicity and symmetry to it that feels uninterrupted and quite plain. Where other men were wearing Vegas-club styled black dress shirts or “creative” jackets, this tuxedo up against any of those wins hands down in terms of elegance.
Finally, it’s worth mentioning Christoph Waltz’s midnight-blue shawl-collared tuxedo from Prada. I thought it moved with him quite well when he accepted his Oscar on stage and fit him better, especially when compared to the midnight-blue tuxedo worn by Daniel Day Lewis, whose tuxedo didn’t quite fit in the shoulders and had divoting. Waltz’s jacket could be improved by removing the flap pockets and allowing for more shirt cuff to show, but I liked it quite a bit.
These four have forgone wearing black shirts, neckties, notched lapels, two-button fronts, flap pockets (excepting Waltz) and have sought to cover their waist with either a waistcoat, cummerbund or by going double-breasted. And because of this, I think they’re better-dressed for it.
-Kiyoshi
