Tailor Made Style

putthison:

Black Tie at the 2013 Oscars

It’s easy to lament about the state of black tie in Hollywood during award shows, but some men are worth highlighting for wearing a tuxedo well and with an adherence to tradition. 

Hugh Jackman’s tuxedo from Tom Ford was my favorite, featuring a very unique double-breasted shawl-collared jacket and he was one of the few to wear a simple pocket square. The ensemble is quite masculine and reminds me of something you’d perhaps see an actor wear while browsing through old Hollywood black and white photos. And we all know he was actually able to move quite well in it.

And Bradley Cooper’s three-piece tuxedo worked equally well, I thought (also by Tom Ford) — especially when comparing how the waistcoat fit him properly in comparison to Ben Affleck’s three-piece. The broadness of the peaked lapels looked much more striking in comparison to the many other tuxedos of the night that were notched. 

What I liked about Chris Pine’s simple double-breasted 6x2 tuxedo from Ermenegildo Zegna was that it has a simplicity and symmetry to it that feels uninterrupted and quite plain. Where other men were wearing Vegas-club styled black dress shirts or “creative” jackets, this tuxedo up against any of those wins hands down in terms of elegance. 

Finally, it’s worth mentioning Christoph Waltz’s midnight-blue shawl-collared tuxedo from Prada. I thought it moved with him quite well when he accepted his Oscar on stage and fit him better, especially when compared to the midnight-blue tuxedo worn by Daniel Day Lewis, whose tuxedo didn’t quite fit in the shoulders and had divoting. Waltz’s jacket could be improved by removing the flap pockets and allowing for more shirt cuff to show, but I liked it quite a bit. 

These four have forgone wearing black shirts, neckties, notched lapels, two-button fronts, flap pockets (excepting Waltz) and have sought to cover their waist with either a waistcoat, cummerbund or by going double-breasted. And because of this, I think they’re better-dressed for it. 

-Kiyoshi

humblegentleman:

thesilentist:

Sneakers and Suits: No, thank you

Last week, Evolving Style mused about wearing sneakers with a casual suit, saying, “Done well, it just looks good.” (Yes, he said much more than that and wrote a follow-up, too. Go read both, as they’re the reason why I’m writing this post.) 

One may argue the look is “trendy”, “fashionable” or even “stylish” in the most broad sense of the term, but it doesn’t present a look of being well-dressed in a “classic” sense. And that’s my objection to the look.

I’m not entirely sure why people enjoy the sneakers and suit look. Perhaps these synthetic, rubber-soled, radioactive-neon tumors show their keen sense of rebelliousness and creativity — so eager to break rules! — where the contradiction is the appeal.

But I don’t share those values and it’s my preference to wear clothing where each item shares a similar level of formality and function. 

The visual effect of looking at a tailored suit and then ending at the sneaker is a jarring one. This comes from the inherent contradictory realms the pieces occupy. To be dressed well, all elements must work in concert, not in chaos. 

The simple fact is that sneakers are for athletics and sportswear — they’re a different class of clothing in terms of use and formality than what even the most casual of suits can occupy. The two should remain separate for their respective functions and never intersect. 

It should be understood that while sneakers are for casual wear, a casual suit is simply just a less-formal type of suit. This doesn’t diminish the suit’s importance and reason for being worn to that of a situation where casual athletic sportswear is appropriate. 

A casual suit requires a more casual shoe, however, not the most casual shoe. Bucks, saddle shoes, spectators, suede brogues and even the controversial loafer are appropriate for the casual suit. I feel this achieves a harmonious look and is best. 

I find the look a bit childish, like what a teenager or disaffected college student would do in a situation where they’re forced to wear a suit but hate the idea of dressing up. 

I like wearing the appropriate clothing for the situation. I see no personal need for fashionable rebellion. 

I have had the same reservations about the look of wearing sneakers with a causal suit. Although I thought it would be one of those trends where after a while you begin to appreciate what the look represents or is trying to convey, the style still seems to bother me. For me, the sneaker and suit combination tries to integrate two articles of clothing that are so far apart in style that they never homogenize and therefore become contradictory. This, to me, diminishes the whole outfit.

I am not saying that individuals who wear the suit and sneakers combination are not “stylish” (or whatever you want to say). Some of the people I respect most pair these two together at times. Patrick Johnson is one example. He looks extremely comfortable and more at ease when he wears a causal suit that anyone else I can think of. If there was one person who I thought could make this look an aesthetically pleasing one, it would be him. However, I do not think it can be done. 

Kiyoshi makes a great point that no real situation calls for wearing sneakers with a suit. To me combination is not functional and, as Kiyoshi points out, the sole purpose seems to be rebellion.

A “causal” suit does not necessarily invite the casualness of sneakers. No matter how you wear your suit, it is still inherently formal in a way that sneakers can never be.

(Source: devoureth, via lifestyleofapreppygaykid)