Tailor Made Style

It's not about what you wear, but how you wear it.
chriswjoseph:

You can almost never go wrong with a three piece suit… Black and grey play well together and in this instance, a crisp white shirt is the best choice to anchor the ensemble. [Brand information unavailable; photo source: Google Images.] #theMensStyleConcierge #StyleAmbassadors #MensWear #Dapper #DailyStyle #MensStyle #PocketSquare #SuitUp #Haberdashery #ThreePiece #Sartorial #SkinnyTie #MensFashion #StyleKings #chriswjoseph

My one complaint? Too skinny of a tie. That or too wide of lapels on the suit jacket.
Otherwise this is great. To be fair, I am a bit biased against skinny ties anyway.

chriswjoseph:

You can almost never go wrong with a three piece suit… Black and grey play well together and in this instance, a crisp white shirt is the best choice to anchor the ensemble. [Brand information unavailable; photo source: Google Images.] #theMensStyleConcierge #StyleAmbassadors #MensWear #Dapper #DailyStyle #MensStyle #PocketSquare #SuitUp #Haberdashery #ThreePiece #Sartorial #SkinnyTie #MensFashion #StyleKings #chriswjoseph

My one complaint? Too skinny of a tie. That or too wide of lapels on the suit jacket.

Otherwise this is great. To be fair, I am a bit biased against skinny ties anyway.

(via ingeniousjuice)

No belt. Why? Because fuck you.
Tucked in tie? Fuck yes.
Definitely my kind of style. In fact, I am already planning on wearing this outfit myself.

No belt. Why? Because fuck you.

Tucked in tie? Fuck yes.

Definitely my kind of style. In fact, I am already planning on wearing this outfit myself.

(via hommism)

An education.

mostexerent:

Still getting emails & messages about fit “basics” - see below from the archives circa 2011

mostexerent:

COVER YOUR ASS

There is a common misconception that one should have the length of their jackets as short as possible to give the perception of hight via longer leg balance to shorter body. Unless you are a ‘hipster’ & going for that certain look that will make you cringe next season, don’t read on.

The same goes for the misconception of shorter men must avoid cuffs with pants.

BAR-HUMBUG!

There is no actual quantum science or emperical measure as we are all blessed with different body proportions as shapes.

But in my opinion it is best to understand your body proportions & shape then adhere to some certain guidelines not rules to make you look your best:

  1. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  2. Sleeves of jacket should be no shorter than the natural flex point - where your hand meets your wrist (I will elaborate on my technique later) & not past where your thumb meets your hand
  3. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  4. Shoulder of jacket not sit before or no more than 2cm from the end of your natural shoulder
  5. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  6. Body of jacket not be so tight that you look like an extra from some bad commercial shoot of certain ‘FASHUN’ brands or Men’s “STYLE” magazines
  7. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  8. The actual buttoning point at your natural waist (give or take a cm, lower is better) & you natural waist is roughly where your belly button is. DO NOT GET CONFUSED with wearing jeans as they tend to sit on YOUR HIPS, unless you have progressed to Grown Man Style dungarees ;)
  9. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  10. Pants should sit as close as possible to your natural waist (see above) - pants are not jeans
  11. Jacket MUST cover your ASS
  12. Good tailoring is not tight fitting, good tailoring provides movement
  13. Jacket MUST cover your ASS

As mentioned in an earlier post, Patrick Johnson (tailor) & I changed a few minor measurements with this suit to keep it as ‘classic’ as possible compared to my other suits.

  1. Jacket is nearly 2cm longer (see comparison to yesterdays flannel chalk stripe) to add an unbroken line
  2. ‘Roped’ versus ‘soft’ shoulder or ‘con rollino’ v ‘spalla camicia’
  3. Waist points or buttoning dropped by 1cm & retained circumference measurements
  4. Higher sleeve hole to add elegance & to lengthen the torso
  5. Sleeve shape & length the same
  6. Different pocket treatment (actually tucked in the flaps)
  7. Pants are same

What do we see?

Other than the grey suit looking more English & the navy chalk looking more Italian - see the difference.

Where the (sleeve) ends

“My method” as no tailor I know uses this but agree it works for me

  1. Stand “naturally” & let arms hang “naturally”
  2. Raise hands so that they are parallel to the floor - yoga helps
  3. Jacket sleeve kisses back of hand with no break, this is ‘my’ natural flex point & where I try & make sure all my sleeves finish
  4. Ask tailor to pin or take measurement
  5. Walk around & start again to make sure it is the same

Now have a look at the full body shots & see the consistency & the effects this gives me.

Is there a natural flow from shoulder to arm to wrist point & where the jacket finishes.

Finally - if your jacket body is too short (as in not covering your ass), your sleeves will look too long & hence throw the whole visual proportions out & the above will make no impact.

FWIW I am:

  • 5’7” or 175cm. Not of model height
  • 160 lb or 73 kg. Too many burgers & dumplings
  • 18.5” or 47cm across the shoulder. So wider than what my height dictates if I was ‘average’
  • Rather not disclose my waist. Too many burgers & dumplings

The most important message - find a GOOD tailor that you connect with & TRUST him or her.

Details | Suit - P Johnson for GW | Shirt - Ascot Chang for GW | PS - Facconable | Tie - 15 YEAR OLD Channel (sheesh I have an old passport picture of me wearing this same tie) | Hoofs - John Lobb “Phillip II” on 7000 last for Leather Soul

You’ve been schooled.

thedapperstyle:

It’s the year of the loafer! They are everywhere. We suggest lighter colors for spring. A suede loafer is a definite.

I’ve recently begun looking for a decent pair of loafers on the cheap. I’ve never liked loafers before, so of course I need to get a pair and Tim Gunn that shit.

Make. It. Work.

mrmoderngentleman:

mugenstyle:

I like tucking in my tie as well, remember its not for everyone.

P

Definitely not for everyone and tricky to pull off; precisely why I do it sometimes.

mrmoderngentleman:

mugenstyle:

I like tucking in my tie as well, remember its not for everyone.

P

Definitely not for everyone and tricky to pull off; precisely why I do it sometimes.

I can’t think of a time or outfit I’d find use for the boots he is wearing, but I want them.

I can’t think of a time or outfit I’d find use for the boots he is wearing, but I want them.

(via hommism)

I really want a lightweight double breasted blazer for the summer.

I really want a lightweight double breasted blazer for the summer.

(via hommism)

putthison:

Real People: Braces

For a while now I’ve been thinking about trouser fit. As a consequence, the idea of braces (a.k.a.: suspenders) has crossed my mind as well. Looking at these photos from Edvard from Armenia, I’m convinced that if I do look to purchase a custom suit in the future, the trousers will not have belt loops — instead: braces buttons and side-adjusters. 

Braces can keep your trousers up better than a belt can, especially if you’re like me and have developed a slight beer gut that pushes the waistband of your trousers down. The suspension keeps them at the proper height throughout the day without the need to restrict the waist and rumple the waistline as you would when tightening a belt. Or so goes the theory. I haven’t tried it yet myself, but I see enough guys praise braces to make me very interested in giving them a shot. 

Going with braces makes even more sense on a double-breasted suit, as it allows them to stay hidden and out of view. Traditionally, some will refer to braces as a form of underwear that should never be seen and concealed by a jacket or waistcoat at all times. That view probably isn’t widely held today — nor are braces widely worn — but I think it’s a fair point and worth considering. 

-Kiyoshi

Braces are a much better option for suits. I even wear them with certain casual outfits as it holds my pants up better and is more comfortable. It is definitely worth looking into if you have never worn them before!